There is mozzarella and mozzarella. Naturally coagulated by adding whey to raw milk. Or rapid coagulation, with citric acid, perhaps even from frozen curd of unknown origin.
That’s why be wary of string cheese that lists the presence of the additive citric acid (E330) in the ingredient list, and especially demand to know when the product was made from curds that come from far away instead of milk.
Italian dairy products, traditions of glory
Dairy culture in Italy is expressed in a variety of 539 typical productions, including cheeses and other dairy products (e.g., ricotta). Twice as many as the 265 varieties of cheese celebrated in France in a historic statement by General Charles De Gaulle. But more than numbers is worth authenticity, that is, respect for human traditions and skills in symbiosis with animals and the biodiversity of places.
Raw-milk cheeses represent the cornerstone, as the curd obtained from its cheesemaking preserves its microbial profile known as ‘native flora.’ Namely, that microbiota of udder and environment that expresses exactly meadows and pastures, legumes and cereals, terroir and microclimate. Hay milk-that is, milk derived from cows raised on pasture-is distinguished by, among other things, the different fatty acid composition of the lipid fraction. To the point of doubling the Omega 3 content and significantly increasing the amounts of CLA (conjugated linoleic acid), great allies of cardiovascular health.
Mozzarella, premise
Mozzarella in preserving liquid, made from cow’s milk, is a fresh cheese without a rind, with a delicate taste, especially valued for its elastic texture and juiciness. The characteristic flavor of some mozzarellas is mainly due to an initial mild proteolytic attack on the proteins by bacterial enzymes associated with the acidity developed by lactic acid bacteria and salt. Thus, it is a balance between bitter, sour and salty.
Some dairies, in processing buffalo dairy products, ‘prematurely’ process raw milk to promote encourage proteolysis and thus the initial development of the microbiota. Over the past decades, however, the need to extend product durability as much as possible, even to reach more distant markets, has contributed to product standardization and taste flattening. Raw milk production therefore now represents a glorious niche.
Authentic mozzarella, natural coagulation
Raw milk-with its retinue of environmental lactobacilli, yeasts and ferments-coagulates through the addition of rennet and ferments from natural whey starter, where provided. That is, by natural lactografting, or selected starters. The natural acidification of curd separated from whey is activated, in practice, by the grafts grown in the whey remaining from the previous day’s cheese production (so-called wheygraft). The lactic acid bacteria in the graft digest lactose and convert it into lactic acid, in at least 3 hours (even 4-5, in winter) at room temperature (30-35°C, especially if fermentation takes place under serum). And a mature curd is formed, that is, a ready-to-spin dough with a naturally reduced lactose content. In lactic fermentation, the reduction of the original lactose content is about 30 percent, compared to the starting curd.
In turn, the curd retains its original microbial profile, and metabolic activity continues throughout processing, giving products unique flavor and aroma profiles. The activity of most bacteria actually ends with spinning, a thermal-mechanical treatment that results in the inactivation of heat-sensitive microorganisms. On the other hand, their activity continues-in provola, scamorze and caciocavallo cheeses destined for aging-even during the course of refinement(a.k.a. seasoning), so that proteolysis and lipolysis are realized. (1)
Mozzarella cheese with critical acid
Tradition gives way to ‘economist’ dictates in many industrial productions where organic acids are used to correct the pH of milk. Citric acid is actually a ‘technological shortcut’ that activates coagulation within minutes. These productions are sometimes presented as ‘artisanal’ simply because they are made in more or less small facilities. But they have nothing to do with authentic dairy art.
Curd, in order to spin properly, must be partially demineralized by uniformly lowering its pH so that a certain amount of colloidal calcium is released into the whey. To achieve this, as an alternative to natural fermentation, many producers resort to chemistry. Adding citric acid, or lactic acid, to milk. The former is more effective because it combines acidity with the power to sequester calcium, so less is used and coagulation at pH 5.85 is achieved.
Frozen curds, the hidden ingredient in many industrial productions
Many (pseudo) ‘mozzarella’ and other (pseudo) stringy ‘cheeses’ made from frozen curds sourced far away-usually often from Northern Europe (Germany, Poland, Ukraine especially) and the Baltic countries-rather than from raw, fresh milk.
Curds on closer inspection are compound ingredients (milk, rennet) and as such should be listed in the ingredient list of the finished product. But this is not happening, due to a lascivious interpretation of existing rules endorsed by MiPAAF and other authorities.
Citric acid and lactose, the true cost of sweetness
Citric acid employed in most ‘industrial’ mozzarellas-which are distinguished by its presence, as an additive, on the ingredients list-keep the lactose largely intact (although it is not concentrated in the curd but is lost in the whey and then in the spinning water, the firming and cooling water, and finally in the governing liquid).
Fermentation activated by serum graft, conversely, converts some of the lactose into lactic acid, what does not happen when an organic acid (citric acid, lactic acid) is added. The resulting mozzarellas are also therefore easier to digest.
Delactosed?
Various schools of thought have repeatedly evoked the alleged ‘toxicity’ of fresh dairy products. The largest epidemiological study on the subject-conducted on 5 continents among 136,384 adults followed for 9 consecutive years-published in The Lancet, however, disproved this claim. (2) But it doesn’t seem to have occurred to anyone that the poor digestibility of some products, such as precisely mozzarella with citric acid, should instead be traced precisely to the manufacturing process.
The use of delactosed milk has the sole function of reducing lactose residues to acceptable levels for people intolerant to it. Only for this category of consumers – who are always advised to undergo appropriate diagnosis before excluding various foods from their diets – does it make sense to resort to fresh cheese, cottage cheese and processed ‘lactose-free‘ cheese. On the other hand, it makes less sense to choose lactose-free yogurt, as lactic acid bacteria contribute lactase in quantity. Or lactose-free butter, which in any case resides in minimal amounts.
Purchasing tips
Traditional mozzarella cheese-produced with natural whey or lactobacterium and strictly free of citric acid-offers a wealth of microorganisms that can interact favorably with the intestinal microbiota, which is responsible for, among other things, the immune response at the intestinal level. It is one of the leading players in the Mediterranean diet, thanks in part to the contributions-characteristic of both types of mozzarella of nutrients (protein, fat) and micronutrients (e.g., calcium, sodium, potassium, phosphorus, beta-carotene, vitamins A and B group, E).
It is then worth learning to appreciate its authentic, fresh and slightly acidic flavors. And to distinguish the distinctive flavor profiles of the various terroirs that can still be found in Italy. Giving up those homologated sweetish flavors, instead characteristic of products with citric (or lactic) acid, under the banner of promotional offers. Better less, but better.
Interim conclusions
We need to learn to distinguish industrially produced mozzarella (lactic and citric) and artisanal mozzarella (raw, thermalized or pasteurized milk). Artisan mozzarellas are definitely to be favored, for the reasons stated above. And we need to fight on every front for transparency on the label so that consumers can distinguish:
– mozzarellas from natural wheygraft (or lactograft) versus those with citric (or lactic) acid,
– products made (in whole or in part) from frozen curds instead of milk. Always keeping in mind that the quality of the primary ingredient and the processing make a big difference.
Dario Dongo and Michele Polignieri
Notes
(1) See Absolatte. Cheese seasoning. http://www.assolatte.it/it/home/salute_benessere_detail/1433415726016/1505377574527
(2) Paola Palestini. Milk and health, The Worldwide Study in The Lancet. GIFT(Great Italian Food Trade). 3.12.18, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/latte-e-salute-the-worldwide-study-su-the-lancet
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
Veterinary director at the ASL of Bari, master in food culture at the University of Rome Tor Vergata, member of the panel on extra virgin olive oil at the Bari Chamber of Commerce and lively food critic.
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