Just two years after the last amendment, the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO Consortium has been given the green light by the MiPAAF to update the specification of the king of raw milk cheeses. (1)
The new specification slightly modifies some production requirements and defines the conditions of use of optional flavor-related terms. From feed to fork, new features to follow.
Dairy cattle input
Greater stringency is first applied to the entry of cattle from areas outside the area of origin:
– currently can be used ‘lactating and dry cows after not less than four months after introduction to the farm.’ Provided that during the first 4 months of stay the cows are ‘fed in accordance with the rules of these Regulations‘ and any milk produced is not delivered to the dairy,
– The new specification, on the other hand, prescribes that ‘animals from production chains other than Parmigiano Reggiano must be introduced to the farms included in the control system no later than their tenth month of age.’
Cow feeding
The feeding of cows is subjected to stricter rules. The ban on feeding ‘to dairy cows, either directly or as feed ingredients, soaps and all fats (oils, tallow, lard, butters), whether of animal or vegetable origin, remains firm.’ And yet:
– is halved, from 100 to 50 grams/head/day, the maximum dose of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and other nutrients that can be supplied in premixes (with possible support of only ‘vegetable oils and fats in all forms and types‘),
– a limit is imposed on the ‘daily amount of lipids (evaluated as ether extract) fed to lactating animals‘. No more than 4.0% of total dry matter and 700 g as the amount contributed by feed.
Milk
The milk used to produce Parmigiano Reggiano, according to ancient tradition, cannot be subjected to heat treatment. The new specification specifies that it cannot even be subjected to treatment ‘Physical, mechanical such as, for example, centrifugation, bactofugation, and microfiltration.’ The ban on the use of food additives, one of the elements that distinguishes Parmigiano from Grana Padano (where the use of the preservative lysozyme from eggs is permitted instead), remains firm.
The wheygraft used for strictly natural fermentation, it is now clarified, cannot receive addition of ‘corrective or reinforcing lactic acid bacteria cultures, as well as nutritional supplements to promote the development of lactic acid flora. Only the addition of an aliquot of milk is allowed.‘ And it is still possible ‘toretain even a percentage greater than 15 percent of the morning milk rate if this allows for the production of a maximum of one mold‘ (thus exceeding the 15 percent limit established so far).
The processing
Cheese processing, like milk processing, does not allow for technological innovations. Therefore, a special paragraph prohibits Parmigiano Reggiano from being subjected to treatments capable of altering the chemical/physical and organoleptic characteristics set forth in the specification.
Forming then tightens. Thus-if the proposed amendment is approved, as is almost expected-the maximum diameter of the cheese wheel will have to be reduced from 45 to 43 centimeters.
Grating and packaging
All grating, portioning and subsequent packaging of the cheese, the new specification clarifies, must be carried out exclusively within the area of origin.
This overcomes the uncertainty of the coeval specification, where it was stipulated that ‘the packaging of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese grated and in portions with and without rind‘ should be carried out in the area of origin, but without clarifying whether portioning and grating should take place in the same place as packaging.
Grated product, no additives yes to scraps
It is forbidden to add to the grated Parmesan cheese any substance other than the scraps mentioned below. Previously, however, the ban was limited to the ‘addition of substances likely to change the original shelf life and organoleptic characteristics.’
Scrap, the residue from Parmigiano Reggiano processing, is mentioned in two new articles. In fact, the Consortium opens up the possibility of its use in further reworkings of Parmigiano Reggiano, by parties included in the control system.
Branding
The discipline of branding appears to be simplified, in the relationship between producers and the Consortium. For example, the 4-month deadline now stipulated before dairies wishing to produce Parmigiano Reggiano can start their operations is deleted.
The operator can then choose whether to make the origin marking with the traditional casein plate or with ‘equivalent systems‘. The Consortium does not define equivalent systems, merely prescribing their suitability to uniquely identify each form.
Parmesan cheese, seasoning and appellations.
The aging of the cheese is extended up to 40 months. And optional descriptions of the organoleptic properties of products are now tied to compliance with minimum maturation requirements, which in that case must also be indicated:
– gentle (12-19 months),
– harmonic (about 20-26 months),
– aromatic (about 27-34 months),
– intense (about 35-45 months).
The green light from the European Commission is now awaited.
Dario Dongo and Silvia Giordanengo
Notes
(1) Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry (MiPAAF). Proposal to amend the specification of the protected designation of origin “Parmigiano Reggiano”. (20A07198). In OJ General Series No. 3, 05-01-2021
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
Civil lawyer, master in Food, Law and Finance.
