Wine, sugar unveiled

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Stop sugaring secrets. European Commission calls for addition of sugar to wine to be reported on labels

The European Commission finally takes a position on whether wine labels should specify the use of sugars other than grapes. Sugaring unveiled, finally hopefully.

Sugar Unveiled




The sugaring of wines




, remember, is banned in Italy

as in Spain, Portugal and Greece. In other countries of Europe, conversely, adding to wines the alien sugars-beet and cane-is common practice. Behind the backs of those who make wine from grapes alone, facing higher costs, and unsuspecting consumers.

Consumer information is indispensable, It is indeed the minimum condition for the serious asymmetry of wine production rules still in place in the Internal Market to be tolerated. At last the European Commission is beginning to recognize this need, which Assoenologi and Great Italian Food Trade have been advancing for some time, now also with the support of the Alliance of Cooperatives and Coldiretti. L‘s addition of sugar should always be indicated on wine labels.

Alien sugars on labels, ongoing debates



Italy has been engaged for years


in the battle for

transparency
Of wine labels. If sugars other than grape sugars have been used, the consumer must be informed. Taking into account both sugaring and sparkling hypotheses, with sucrose from cane or beet.

The Alliance of Italian Cooperatives

and Coldiretti


have therefore objected to the rearguard positions expressed by Ceev (


Comité Européen des Entreprises Vins


) and Copa-Cogeca (the European confederation of agricultural confederations in EU member states).

‘We want transparency’. And if sugar is added to the wine, it must be indicated on the label. We consider sugar to be an ingredient and as such it should be indicated‘ (Ruenza Santandrea, Italian Agri-Food Cooperatives Alliance, wine sector coordinator).

The debate on closer inspection has a completely different scope. It is not just a question of whether to mention alien sugars on bottles presented as ‘nectar of Bacchus.’ Instead, we must subject alcoholic beverages to the same labeling rules established for general food products.

Alcoholic beverages, label exemptions

The regulation ‘
Food Information to Consumers
‘ granted alcoholic beverages two unwarranted exemptions from labeling requirements:

– exemption from the mandatory ingredient list (subject to the duty to indicate allergens),

– Exemption from the nutrition table requirement. (1)



On 13.3.17, the European Commission


presented a ‘rosewater’ report.
. A document in which, instead of ending the cited exemptions, Brussels asked trade associations to come up with proposals for voluntary ‘codes of conduct’ within a year.

On 12.3.18, the affected sectors-wine, beer, cider and spirits-submitted a proposal that borders on the ridiculous. Committing to communicate ingredient list and nutrition statement not on the label but on the web. In different ways, among others, depending on the categories. (2)

In September 2018, a European Commission spokesperson said that the above draft self-regulation is inconsistent with its legal assumptions and is inadequate to inform EU consumers. Brussels may then decide to introduce mandatory standards-better late than never.

The commissioner Vytenis Andriukaitis, moreover, has already distinguished himself by a series of bluffs. On combating food fraud
, then relegated to a ‘knowledge center

.


as on the definition of vegetarian and vegan foods

. Therefore, it is better to wait for action before becoming complacent with words.

Dario Dongo and Marta Strinati

Notes

(1) Cf. EU 1169/2011, Article 16.4

(2) The declaration of energy value ‘per 100 ml’, in particular, is bitterly opposed by spirits producers, who insist on expressing values only per serving. On the opposite front, brewers, happy to provide nutrition statements referring to 100 ml on the label, as well as the list of ingredients

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Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.

Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".