The Consortium for the Protection of Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO has approved the new specification, which is now being examined by the European Commission. (1) A crucial aspect concerns the categories of pigs admitted to the certified supply chain from now on.
In fact, the breeders of AVA (Association Veneta Allevatori), who feed the production of San Daniele, fear a drastic drop in pig sales. And they are asking for clarification, in a letter addressed to MiPAAF and other players in the supply chain.
Foreword, the pig classification system
Pigs intended for the production of PDO ham must meet certain characteristics, to be verified by applying a European classification scheme consisting of 6 classes.
The system was in principle divided into 5 classes (E, U, R, O, P), on an increasing scale that considers the ratio of lean meat to fat. And the specifications for Prosciutto di Parma PDO and San Daniele PDO only allowed carcasses classified in the middle levels (U, R, O).
However, the introduction of class S at the beginning of the scale (lean meat >60%) in 2014 changed the geometry of the European pig classification scheme. (2)
PDO hams, exclusion of ‘moderately lean’ pigs
The new S class, for leaner pigs, actually met the most modern carcass evaluation criteria in slaughterhouses. But most of all to the evidence of an evolution of Italian pigs, which over the years have seen an increase in lean meat (+3-4%, on average, compared to the past).
The selection of pigs intended for PDO ham should have admitted, as a logical consequence, classes E, U, R, O. Conversely, excluding the two new extremes S and P (pigs too thin or too fat). But the symmetry was lost, and ‘moderately lean’ E-class pigs remained excluded from the specifications.
Escamotage
PDO consortia have been unwilling to update the specifications with respect to the evolution of Italian animal husbandry. Therefore, to avoid the downgrading of pigs more in line with consumer demand, who now prefer leaner hams than in the past, a ploy was agreed upon.
When classifying carcasses in slaughterhouses, a margin of uncertainty of 1.6 percent was introduced, which is equal to the margin of error of AutoFom (the most reliable tool in carcass classification, which, moreover, was never adopted in the Bel Paese). So as to recover 70 percent of thighs (E-class) otherwise discarded by PDOs. (3)
‘Prosciuttopoli,’ a case not to be repeated
The ‘Prosciuttopoli’ case, which broke out in 2018, stemmed from consumer demand for leaner hams that nevertheless postulated the use of pigs with genetics not allowed in PDO specifications. Consortia could have (and should have, in this writer’s opinion) considered the market reality in time to update the specifications and allow class E carcasses, especially for certain types of products such as sliced. But this did not happen, and scandal occurred.
Resistance to the change in formal requirements and their discordance with market demand have caused serious legal trouble for many Consortia members, ranchers especially. For raising pigs and placing on the market products of excellent quality, made in designated areas and in accordance with tradition, which, however, did not comply with the formal requirements of the specification.
San Daniele, the doubts of Veneto breeders
Breeders in the Veneto region -gathered in AVA to escape Coldiretti’s colonization-are expressing concern over the revision of the specification for San Daniele PDO ham. Is it intended to confirm the Italicploy already in use (1.6 percent tolerance)?
Added to this is the doubt about the possible suspension of classification supervision in half of the 28 slaughterhouses, about which much is said ‘behind closed doors’ and even the writer asked Mipaaf for an account last month, in vain. In fact, the Agricultural Policies are responsible for the veracity of the data published online every week and submitted to the EU every year.
The demands of AVA (Association Veneta Allevatori).
AVA (Association Veneta Allevatori) therefore asks MiPAAF:
1) An impact assessment on the consequences of the worst-case scenario. What would happen to the PDO ham supply chain if San Daniele excluded tolerances, in addition to confirming the non-acceptance of E-class (moderately lean) pigs?
2) How to address classification controls at the slaughterhouse to ensure fairness, legitimacy, correctness and transparency of the system?
The silent choir
The recipients of AVA’s letter, attached herewith., are Mipaaf Minister Stefano Patuanelli, the official of the same department Antonio Mario Caira, the two consortia of PDO San Daniele and Parma ham, the two certifiers IFCQ and CSQA, the anti-fraud ICQRF Northeast, Assica (slaughterhouses and processors), Veneto’s councillor for Agriculture Federico Caner and the councillor for Economic Activities Gianluca Fregolent, as well as the three trade unions Confagricoltura, CIA and Coldiretti.
As can be seen, all stakeholders, interested parties, are involved. So far they have been mute chorus. No one responded. Yet, there is a feeling that everyone knows the answers well.
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) SEE ANNEX
(3) SEE https://suinicoltura.edagricole.it/prezzi-suini/classificazione-carcasse-un-dibattito-aperto/
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
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