Raw Materials
quality in catering
. This is the first point of our analysis, a first taste of which is shared. Roman vacations.
Rome Capital. Tourism, residents, public establishments
Tourist demand in hotel and complementary accommodation facilities in the Metropolitan City of Rome Capital recorded 18,028,393 arrivals (+3.11 percent) and 42,230,518 total presences (+2.65 percent) in 2017. (1) The registered population, as of 12/31/17, was 2,872,000 persons, 1,368,299 households (Istat data).
More than 22 thousand public establishments-7 percent of the total in Italy, 340 thousand-are registered in the territory of Roma Capitale. Food service activities with serving (38.2 percent), bars and other similar establishments without cooking (38.3 percent), catering without serving (12.4 percent), ice cream and confectionery shops (4.1 percent), itinerant catering and ice cream shops (0.2 percent), provision of prepared meals (1.6 percent), canteens (3.0 percent). (2)
Roman vacations, a first taste
Roman vacations, first in Italy for tourist reception, are worth a first taste. Years of research would not be enough to bring such a complex scenario into focus. A nod to suppliers, however, is enough for a rough idea of the criteria adopted by restaurateurs in selecting raw materials.
Distribution companies dominate the market. Trade promotions and logistics efficiency drive demand amid metropolitan chaos. In contrast, companies specializing in the production of quality raw materials and semi-finished products are referred to by a minority, though not marginal, share of restaurateurs aiming for quality. It’s just too bad we can’t tell them apart at a glance or App.
Some clues can be gathered by consulting the menus or websites of restaurateurs most motivated to offer fine ingredients. And it is not the originality of the proposals that makes the difference, as the names and combinations can simply come from imagination and creativity, regardless of the goodness of the raw materials.
Rather, the origin is a good clue to follow, looking for food places that pay attention to the production chain. The reference to PDO, PGI, and organic ingredients, as well as making clear the territorial origin of the protagonists of each course. Even premium product brands, when they themselves express a codified and shared quality. In the groove laid by the roasters, who still help people choose the coffee shop because of its coffee brand.
Catering in Rome is in itself a Herculean effort, relentlessly from dawn to night the four seasons. But the ability to plan orders in time by relying on excellent producers is the real discriminator that patrons can appreciate and register, even on the infamous review and recommendation sites. Wheat flour x that comes from y, vegetables z from farm k, Italian meat W from animals raised this way and fed that way. Culture and substance.
Roman vacations. I’m starting over from three
Three quality experiences in Roman catering help place courtly principles in the space-time of the here and now. Working on value chains and seasonality is not only possible but rewards. Microphones turned on to activate synapses.
– Angelo, manager of a 200-cover-a-day downtown Rome pizza restaurant, solid experience in distribution and catering, confirms the idea of the scenario in Rome and hints at his ‘winning recipe’.
‘The distribution of products is a crucial issue, especially in a city like Rome where there are traffic problems and warehouse premises are small. Those involved in distribution sell the convenience of calling in the evening at the end of the service and having the order delivered the next day.
We select producers and source directly from them.
For flour, I source from a mill that uses only unrefined Italian grains. I order bags of flour by the pallet, which arrive every fortnight. I avoid ready-made flour mixtures because it is the pizza maker’s job to make a good dough.
For meat, I chose a company that raises animals in the semi-wild state, grows grains to produce feed, and directly follows the slaughtering process. In order to keep product quality high and keep costs down, I buy the whole beast and through a trusted butcher get the cuts I need processed. All the pieces of the animal are of the highest quality and I can use them for steaks, meatballs, meat sauce and burgers.’
–Leonardo, a high-ranking and longtime chef who took over and runs a popular tavern on the outskirts of town, says
‘I try to keep prices low without sacrificing the quality of raw materials. To do this, I source directly from manufacturers with whom I have established relationships that are based on trust.
The chef must know the product; he cannot just pick it from a catalog otherwise he becomes a mere assembler. As for fish for example, I use only fresh, local and caught fish as available each day. And it is important to communicate this value to the customer, to overcome the habit of monotony of choices.’
–Eliana, who in a prestigious restaurant in the center of Rome realized her passion in the kitchen after a career in scientific research, explains
‘Raw material handling and storage techniques are essential in the kitchen. It is a cook’s duty to know their history and to know how to work with them.
Among quality products, vegetables are the most difficult to obtain, because they perish quickly and are subject to weather conditions.
That’s why I shop directly at the market, where I know the individual producers and can choose the best products according to the season.’
In short, excellence cannot be improvised.
Dario Dongo and Stefano Antonelli
Notes
(1) Data from Bilateral Tourism Board Lazio, annual report 2017
(2) FIPE Rome Report, 2018
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
He has over ten years of experience in catering and catering management from quality organic supply chains. He takes care of institutional relations for various organizations, including non-profit organizations.
