Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle PDO, green light from Italian government
La
Mozzarella of Gioia del Colle
has finally received the green light from the Ministry of Agriculture, with a view to its registration as a PDO at the European level. After sterile parochial battles, ready for the finish line.
Mozzarella, between parochial battles and issues to be addressed
Not a few hurdles have stood in the way of the registration procedure for Apulian mozzarella, due to the controversy unleashed in recent months by the Consortium of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO.
The producers from Campania
were in fact arrogating an unrealistic monopoly on a name, mozzarella
, which is instead among the most overused on a planetary level. As well as the subject of serious fraud, such as those we reported on processed cheese (1) and in many pizzerias.
The pseudo-mozzarella with curds
frozen curds of foreign origin
even cannot be distinguished on the label from the authentic one, due to still unresolved legislative loopholes. (2)
But instead of addressing the issues that really affect the identification and enhancement of authentic Italian mozzarella made with fresh milk, (3) resources are being dispersed in silly parochial battles. And if only people would learn to look just beyond their noses, there would be no shortage of opportunities for useful synergies.
Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle PDO
The ‘Treccia della Murgia‘association, after receiving a favorable opinion from the Apulia Region, has filed the production specification for Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle with the Ministry of Agriculture. (4) With a view to its registration and recognition of the rights given to PDOs in the European Union.
Mozzarella di Gioia del Colle is made exclusively from fresh whole raw cow’s milk, with chemical-physical and organoleptic characteristics precisely described in the product specification (in Article 2).
The production area is restricted to certain municipalities in the provinces of Bari and Taranto (specifications, Article 3). With precise duties of documented traceability of raw material and product flows, under the control of the Consortium (Article 4).
The fresh milk used must come from cows raised on pasture for at least 150 days a year, fed mainly on grass and hay from polyphytic herbage (for at least 70 percent of dry matter), as well as legumes, cereals and by-products of their processing, and locust beans (Art. 5).
The processing-according to ancient local traditions-involves the use of only raw milk, with precise characteristics (as to fat and protein content). Serum graft for coagulation is derived from previous productions, thus benefiting from indigenous micro-flowers. Spinning in very hot water and subsequent immersion in cold water for firming (Articles 5, 6).
Mediterranean climate, ventilation from the Adriatic and Ionian seas, limestone soils rich in wild thyme, widespread manual dexterity, and the delicious braid is ready. In the wake of a tradition documented since the early 1900s. What else to say? Thank you!
Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) See Galbani ‘mozzarella slices,’ denounced by Great Italian Food Trade at
https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/etichette/cheese-scam-la-frode-a-fettine
(2) See the first of the weaknesses marked on the milk origin decree, in the article
https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/etichette/decreto-sull-origine-del-latte-in-etichetta-buone-nuove-tempi-e-punti-deboli
(3) Not forgetting the betrayal of Made in Italy and its PDOs put in place with CETA
https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/idee/ceta-il-made-in-italy-tradito
, thanks to the Renzi and Gentiloni governments.
(4) See disciplinary, at
http://www.gazzettaufficiale.it/atto/serie_generale/caricaDettaglioAtto/originario?atto.dataPubblicazioneGazzetta=2017-08-28&atto.codiceRedazionale=17A06033&elenco30giorni=true
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
