The VTT State Technology Research Center in Finland has successfully applied so-called cellular agriculture to coffee. (1) This opens up a new perspective, first and foremost, for the preservation of genetics and the development of propagation materials for plant species.
In the long term, this could perhaps also reduce the pressure of international demand on supply chains that are still critical for their socio-environmental impact. Such as coffee, whose increased demand is causing deforestation. But also cocoa, the protagonist of child exploitation.
Finally, the hypothesis of integrating food sovereignty by laboratory cultivation of plant raw materials unavailable in the countries where they are used and consumed is foreshadowed. Agriculture 5.0 or science fiction? Brief notes to follow.
Northern Europe, the champions in per capita coffee consumption
Per capita (p.c.) coffee consumption in the old continent is unmatched in the world, with Scandinavian countries far outpacing Mediterranean countries. Its ability to stimulate the nervous system would be said to be more coveted where there is less exposure to sunlight, perhaps not surprisingly. (2)
The most recent estimates show the Netherlands in first place, with 8.3 kg/year p.c. Silver medal to Finland and Sweden (7.6 and 7.4 kg), bronze to Norway (6.6). In 7th place is Germany (5.2 kg/year per capita), 10th is Switzerland (4.8) only 11th is Italy (4.7 kg). (3)
Coffee from cellular agriculture, an ancient idea
The idea of suspension cultures of Coffea arabica, with a view to roasting them to produce coffee flavor substances, was introduced nearly half a century ago by a researcher at Vancouver University, Canada (P.M. Townsley, 1974). Even at that time the cell populations had ‘reached such high levels that the culture medium took on the consistency of applesauce.’ (4)
Replacement of the plant hormone (2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid) with indoleacetic acid or kinetin had led to the accumulation of oily droplets inside the cells. And yet, for reasons then unknown, the ability to produce coffee aroma had not been achieved on all crops. Research has continued on several fronts, including to produce caffeine by biosynthesis. (5)
Coffee from cellular agriculture, the research pathway
The focus of researchers in some Coffea arabica-producing countries such as Indonesia in recent years has been on cell culture with somatic embryogenesis to produce new propagation material in the laboratory. (6)
Researchers at VTT in Finland had already demonstrated the great potential of plant cell culture(PCC) technology in plant cell cultivation. With appreciable results-in nutritional, sensory, and digestibility aspects-in a trial on cranberries, cranberries, and currants. (7)
This experience was then applied to the coffee plant, with cell lines being cultured in the laboratory and then transferred to bioreactors to produce biomass. After biomass analysis and roasting process development, the new coffee underwent panel testing for sensory analysis according to ISO standards.
Finland, VTT’s new coffee shop
VTT Technical Research Center of Finland has thus succeeded in developing an innovative and promising coffee production method. Plant cell cultures float and reproduce in conventional bioreactors containing nutrient medium. With a process similar in theory to that also used to reproduce animal cells and tissues. As seen in the case of so-called Lab meat, which is now approaching mass market. (8)
The first batches of Finnish coffee from cellular agriculture are found to have, as a result of analytical and sensory tests, ‘the same smell and taste as traditional coffee. However‘ – points out the head of research, Dr. Heiko Rischer – ‘making coffee is an art and involves process optimization under the supervision of specialists with dedicated equipment. Our work marks the basis for such a pathway‘.
Biotechnology, the prospects of VTT
‘At VTT, this project is part of our overall effort to develop biotechnological production of everyday and familiar products that are conventionally produced by agriculture. For this, we use many different hosts, such as microbes, but also plant cells‘ (Dr. Heiko Rischer, VTT).
The VTT Technical Research Center is a fully state-owned Finnish limited liability company managed by the Finnish Ministry of Economic Affairs and Employment. Because of its public mandate, the research center has an important social role.
Cooperation and sustainable innovation
Active cooperation among social stakeholders (enterprises, universities and research institutes, research funding agencies, ministries, local governments) makes it possible to promote regular information flows and a common vision of priority areas for the sustainable renewal of industrial value chains.
The coffee project , in the context of VTT’s strategic research goals, thus aspires to contribute to the development of sustainable production and consumption systems, in the trajectory of Sustainable Development Goal #SDG12. Cellular agriculture-it is worth adding-could also serve to create buffers to ensure food security in emergency situations (Covid docet). (9)
Time to market
‘The experience of drinking the first cup was exciting. I estimate that we are only four years away from production start-up and regulatory approval. Plant cell cultivation requires specific skills when it is time to scale [production, ed.] and optimize the process.
Downstream processing and product formulation along with regulatory approval and market introduction are further steps on the road to a commercial product. That said, we have now demonstrated that lab-grown coffee can be a reality‘ (Dr. Heiko Rischer, VTT).
Regulatory aspects
Coffee produced by VTT’s bioreactors today represents an experimental food and qualifies as Novel Food. Therefore, its placing on the market, in the European Union, must be preceded by an authorization from the European Commission, with the assistance of the member states at the PAFF(Plants, Animals, Food and Feed) Committee, according to reg. EU 2283/2015.
The path to authorization moves from the submission of a technical-scientific dossier where the applicant characterizes the novel food, explaining its production process and risk analysis, and attaching scientific literature and analyses demonstrating its safety for food fate.
Social impact of research
‘The real impact of this scientific work will come through companies that are willing to rethink food ingredient production and start driving commercial applications. The VTT collaborates and supports large enterprises and small companies in adopting opportunities in the development of their products. Ultimately, all efforts should lead to more sustainable and healthy food for the benefit of the consumer and the planet‘, (Dr. Heiko Rischer, VTT).
In light of what has been stated by the director of the research under review – given the social role of the institution and the public interest in its development (as well as others) Novel Foods – it is hoped that VTT will not want to include confidentiality clauses and trade secrets in the permit application from which an exclusive concession may result. As is often the case, unfortunately, in many European procedures for the approval of Novel Foods. (10)
Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) VTT. Sustainable coffee grown in Finland – the land that drinks the most coffee per capita produces its first tasty cup with cellular agriculture. Press release. 9/15/21, https://www.vttresearch.com/en#
(2) Dario Dongo, Andrea Adelmo Della Penna. Coffee can protect the nervous system. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 8/21/21, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/il-caffè-può-proteggere-il-sistema-nervoso
(3) Martin Armstrong. The Countries Most Addicted to Coffee. Statista Consumer Market Outlook. 1.10.20, https://www.statista.com/chart/8602/top-coffee-drinking-nations/
(4) P.M. Townsley (1974). Production Coffee from Plant Cell Suspension Cultures. Can. Inst. Food Sci. Technol. J. 7: 79-81. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0315-5463(74)73854-8
(5) Sartor, Rosana & Mazzafera, Paulo. (1999). Caffeine formation by suspension cultures of Coffea dewevrei. Brazilian Archives of Biology and Technology. 43. 10.1590/S1516-89132000000100009.
(6) M.S.D. Ibrahim, C. Tresniawati (2020). Evaluation of arabica coffee propagation using cell suspension culture. IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 418 (2020) 012013. doi:10.1088/1755-1315/418/1/012013
(7) Emilia Nordlund, Martina Lille, Pia Silventoinen, Heli Nygren, Tuulikki Seppänen-Laakso, Atte Mikkelson, Anna-Marja Aura, Raija-Liisa Heiniö, Liisa Nohynek, Riitta Puupponen-Pimiä, Heiko Rischer (2018). Plant cells as food – A concept taking shape. Food Research International, Volume 107, 2018: 297-305. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2018.02.045
(8) Dario Dongo. Israel, Future Meat. First lab-grown meat industry kicks off. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 4.7.21, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/innovazione/israele-future-meat-al-via-la-prima-industria-di-carne-coltivata-in-laboratorio
(9) Giuseppe Masala, Dario Dongo. IThe gray swan. The coming economy and parallel internet networks. Égalité. 14.4.20, https://www.egalite.org/il-cigno-grigio-leconomia-che-verra-e-le-reti-internet-parallele/
(10) Some examples of Novel Food licensing procedures with requests for exclusivity in previous articles on
CBD https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/cbd-i-dossier-novel-food-all-esame-di-efsa,
Use of oil from the microalga Schizochytrium limacinum in infant formula https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/novel-food-via-libera-alla-microalga-schyzochytrium-sp-e-ai-semi-di-chia-venduti-sfusi,
microalgae Euglena gracilis https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/innovazione/microalghe-euglena-gracilis-superfood-con-esclusiva
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
